Adrian Vanderspuy, owner of Banghoek property Oldenburg since 2003, realised in the mid-2010s that leaf-roll virus was fundamentally compromising his vision of making world-class wine, and so a programme of replanting was begun – a little over 20ha out of a total of 30ha were subsequently removed, while total number of vineyard blocks increased from 18 to 35, this based on more precise soil mapping.
Vanderspuy is a big advocate of regenerative agriculture and is proud that the WWF recognised Oldenburg as a Conservation Champion at the beginning of the year. However, he equally appreciates that business success comes down to what’s in the bottle. “The global market is saturated, and South Africa suffers from a cheapness problem… Price depends on getting quality right and that, in turn, requires discipline”.
Nic van Aarde came across as winemaker from Warwick in November 2018 while Christo Crous joined as viticulturist in May 2021 after a stint at Uva Mira (with the accomplished Etienne Terblanche consulting). For a long while, the Oldenburg wines were made off-site, but a new cellar came online in 2019. “When you’ve got the right people, then terroir is complete,” says Vanderspuy.
Production has been reduced in recent times (35% of potential in 2024, 65% projected for 2025) as all involved waited for the new vineyard programme to be completed but what is now coming to market is hugely impressive. Tasting notes and ratings as follows (prices on request):
Una V Chardonnay 2023
Grapes from a vineyard planted in 2019 to clone 95. Matured for 10 months in 228-litre barrels, 25% new. 50% malo-lactic fermentation. Pear, peach, citrus and floral perfume plus the merest hint of vanilla and spice. The palate is seemingly light yet intensely flavoured (alcohol is 14% so this is by no means a wine that might be considered too lean). Taut and poised – a great line of acidity and wonderful texture, a certain granularity about it. A refined and sophisticated version of the variety, this is a cuvée to watch.
CE’s rating: 97/100.
Stone Axe Syrah 2022
18% whole-bunch fermentation. Matured for 18 months in 2,500 litre foudre as well as older 300- and 500-litre barrels. Red and black berries, violets, fynbos, pepper and some flinty reduction on the nose. Medium bodied and well structured – good fruit expression, snappy acidity and lightly grippy tannins, the finish long and dry. Stylistically very nicely judged being neither safe nor too wild. Alc: 14.3%.
CE’s rating: 95/100.
Rhodium 2021
55% Cabernet Franc, 35% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Matured for 18 months in 225-litre barrels, 38% new. Red berries, pencil shavings, a hint of tomato leaf and violets on the nose while the palate is medium bodied and elegant with lively acidity and fine tannins, the finish long and super-dry. Alc: 14.8%.
CE’s rating: 94/100.
Per Se Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
Grapes from a virus-free vineyard planted in 2004. Matured for 18 months in 225-litre barrels, 35% new. Red and black berries, intense rose-like perfume, vanilla, spice and pencil shavings on the nose. The palate shows great structure without being too opulent – good fruit density, fresh acidity and firm but not coarse tannins. Should please the Cab classicists. Alc: 14.64%.
CE’s rating: 96/100.
