With the arrival of freshly harvested white grapes in the cellar, we catch up with winemaker Nic van Aarde to explore the fascinating process these grapes will undergo this year.
One technique used for white wines is a lesser-known Burgundian method known as Black Chardonnay, which involves the hyperoxidation of the juice before fermentation.
But why introduce oxygen to this precious juice?
Oxygen has shaped winemaking for centuries. Yet, in recent years, conventional methodology has suggested gently pressing Chardonnay and shielding it from oxygen with carbon dioxide and sulphur dioxide. However, as with many forgotten practices, revisiting old techniques often reveals wisdom that surpasses today’s methods. One such example is hyperoxidation, a technique that challenges modern norms by embracing oxygen in the process.
Nic explains that once the grapes arrive in the cellar, they undergo meticulous sorting before being pressed with deliberate exposure to air, without the addition of sulphites. As a result, the juice turns dark brown and almost black—hence the term ‘Black Chardonnay’. This process is similar to how an apple browns after being cut.
The aim is to drop out the maximum amount of phenolics — the natural compounds in the skins and seeds. At this point, the magic occurs: The dark juice (must) is transferred into tanks, where these natural compounds react with oxygen and begin to settle out of suspension. This reaction removes the dark colour, leaving behind a clear, golden juice.
The result is the stabilisation of these delicate compounds. Consequently, the need for chemical intervention is reduced, and there is less reliance on sulphur, leading to a purer expression of terroir. Enhanced stability also improves the wine’s ageing potential.
And so, the goal is attained: yielding wines with structure, ageability, and a sense of place. This process showcases the delicate balance between human ingenuity and nature in the pursuit of the exceptional.
